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We were to spend the evening in a sheltered
spot and arrived just in time to catch another breathtaking sunset. As
dinner was being prepared, we took the dinghy to shore to meet some locals
and set our feet on solid ground. We drank margaritas and Imperials at the
elegant Aguila de Osa while planning where to surf the next day. We
decided to check a beach break nearby. In less than two hours, we arrived there before 7 a.m. and with
our stomachs full of gallo pinto con huevos, paddled to some of the most
pristine peaks in the country. This area was twice as secluded as the last
spot, twenty miles of open beaches. Waves were about 1 to 2 foot overhead
with a light offshore brushing the face. Sean told me, "I dropped in on a
five foot right and did crazy cutbacks all the way to the beach." The
session lasted about four hours, and we drifted about a kilometer from the
boat. We strolled up the beach to get back, trying to get milk out of
washed up coconuts and chasing thousands of purple, red, and orange
crabs back into their holes. After an arroz con pollo lunch and another
siesta, we made it back to the point we had surfed the day before. The
swell must have cleaned up, and the rocks were well submerged, so we
enjoyed plenty more waves in the afternoon. About five minutes before
taking off, a couple of local kids with battered boards were dropped off
by a passing boat. I took one more ledging left before saying "Hastaluego"
and paddling for the dinghy. A rain shower refreshed the boat's passengers
as we cruised north, back to a sheltered spot
for another peaceful night in the water. Before
dinner, we went to shore and hiked the trail that crosses the tip of the
bay. Not a lot of wildlife was to be seen, but the 400 year old trees were
impressive and the smells of the flora intoxicating. We then climbed 100 steps to find the local
bar was closed, and with a massive thirst stopped at the first restaurant
back for some Cokes and beer. There we traded surf predictions with the
bartender and then wearily returned to the Lohe Lani to rest up for day
five. Just like every other surf trip I've read
about or been on, there's always one of those rainy, onshore days.. We
felt it as soon as the yacht's engine started. For our return trip north,
the coastline was nearly invisible and now we all hesitated a moment when
the captain cut the motor and yelled out "Fish!!" So far we had caught
dorado, bonita, mackerel, and jacks, but no one wanted to catch a cold
from the stinging rain and blustery winds. Eventually the rain died off
and the winds slacked a little. Early in the afternoon we pulled up to
some beautiful beaches to
check for surf. Nada. Since the tide wasn't right, the group voted to
continue on. When we got
near, the winds had restrengthened and the current looked too fierce to
battle. The group then turned tail towards that evening's port of call.
Going a day without surf was unthinkable,
so we jumped in the dinghy to try out the nearby beach break. Spirits were
not that high as all of us were caught inside on a two foot overhead
closeout set. The onshores kept rides dicey and the lower tide didn't help
either. All takeoffs had to be quick, and the exits quicker. After two
hours of split second surfing, conditions slowly improved. I was thinking at the time - "Seek beauty
and you will find it" while singing an old Woody Guthrie tune. The wind
dies out to a whisper, the tide filled in, and the four of us were
cracking jokes about the flotsam in the water. Since we had no schedule
and wanted to savor yet another empty lineup, we stayed out until the sun
disappeared behind distant clouds. Once back on the catamaran, Pedro and I
sat back as the sky lit up a deep ruby and we exchanged a smile conveying
our thoughts on how lucky we were to be out on the Pacific. To further
celebrate our circumstances, we went back into Quepos for a feast ranging
from sushi to sirloin, chimichangas to calamari, washed down with
Imperials and cuba libres. Tomorrow would be the grand
finale. I raised my eyelids when I heard the engine
rumble to life. It was 4 a.m., the captain making good on his promise to
get to another spot before 7 a.m. With no effort, I dropped back onto the
cushioned seat and slept until six. By then the sun was well over the
mountains and a light morning offshore breeze greeted my senses. It was
going to be a hot, sunny morning. We were in the lineup by 7:30 a.m., once
again just the four of us passengers in the water, as well as Maurilio and Greivin (they only surf
if the passengers invite them to join in). Surf was still coming in head high with
some sets well overhead - and it was barreling! Not big enough to stand
straight up in, but on the right wave, with perfect timing, I had a
aquamarine cavern all to myself with hoots greeting me when I dove out the
back. Everyone agreed it was the best session of the trip so far. Lots of
waves, both lefts and rights, not too heavy or mushy, just right for the
size, wind, and tide. By noon, our arms felt like noodles and we knew that
it was time to head back home. A few hours later, we stopped back at the
first point we had surfed on trip and it looked subdued. The tide was too
high and the swell had gone, the sets only hinted at the tremendous peaks
we had surfed there a few days before. The end of trip was as peaceful as the
beginning, an amazing sunset backdropped the islands resting within the
Gulf of Nicoya. The Lohe Lani cruised backed into Puntarenas quietly, as
we traded numbers, addresses, and the promise to keep in touch for out
next surf adventure. We unloaded our gear into the water taxi and once
back at the yacht club, took some departing photos of the group. It was a
boat trip to remember- with a fantastic crew, a group of core surfers from
many coasts, and an amazing catamaran that took us to some of the best
empty peaks Costa Rica has to offer. The Lohe Lani
offers surf charters, ecology tours, and day sails
on the Pacific coast. It accommodates up to 36 passengers for a day trip,
though overnight voyages are typically six to eight people. You can enjoy
seeing waves, dolphins, turtles, monkeys, rainforests, macaws, and
crocodiles. The 60-foot catamaran is headquartered at the Costa Rica Yacht
Club, a convenient ride from the airport, and offers fine food and
accommodations. To know when to go, visit
Costa Rica's most extensive surf site - www.crsurf.com . |
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